48 Hours in Cagliari

“And suddenly there is Cagliari,“ wrote DH Lawrence. “A naked town rising steep, steep, golden-looking, piled naked to the sky.” Adrian Mourby explores this ancient Sardinian city… You have to choose your angle these days to see the Sardinian capital as Lawrence did in 1921, but the Aragonese fortress (known as Castello) still towers over […]

The Sound Of The Dolmites

Chris Allsop attends the Sound of the Dolomites festival for world-class music in a breath-taking natural setting, and then discovers the unspoiled gem known as ‘Little Venice’… The hills are alive with the sound of music. Except this is northeast Italy, not Austria, and it might be a tad rude – if not inaccurate – […]

Passport to Seborga

Marina Spironetti visits the intriguing city state of Seborga in western Liguria. Fiercely independent, it still boasts its own currency, its own passport and, yes, its own prince… Small countries have always fascinated me. From Andorra to Liechtenstein, from Monaco to San Marino – tiny states with their own history, proud to be different. I […]

Pasta & Wine: Inside an Italian Restaurant

The delight of eating at a local trattoria is being among real Italians and eating seasonal, traditional food. Mario Matassa shares his favourite establishment with us, and goes behind the scenes of this Italian Restaurant… The local trattoria in Italy is a theatre, a daily stage show where hundreds of life’s mini dramas are eagerly […]

Setting Sail in Liguria

Marina Spironetti explores the most beautiful seaside locations in eastern Liguria, while learning how to become an old salt… How do you say lupo di mare?” “Hmm… salty sea dog,” Kate answered. “Oh well, I think I am more of an unsalted land bear.” “So am I,” exclaimed my friend Silvana. Aside from a few […]