The art of using leftovers: An Italian tradition

Don’t throw away that stale bread or cold pasta! Explore simple, economical Italian recipes like Frittata and Polpette that transform leftovers into comfort food.

Italian Polenta fritters recipe
Photo © Mario Matassa

For Italians, using up leftover food is a virtue, and one that has been transformed into an artform. The Tuscans in particular are a shining example of this tradition. It’s often said they have invented more ways of using leftover bread than they have of using it fresh!

One of Italy’s most iconic dishes, the humble ribollita, is in fact nothing more than a clever guise for leftover soup that has been re-boiled and garnished with bread that has seen fresher days.

Tuscans know only too well that twice-cooked vegetables concentrate the flavours and, in fact, this dish tastes so good that restaurants today often charge exorbitant prices for their not-so-humble ribollita.

Today’s use of leftovers in the Italian kitchen stems from a time when food was scarce and the idea of throwing anything away inconceivable. Such was the importance of using leftovers that in 1916, Olindo Guerrini, a writer and poet, published L’arte di utilizzare gli avanzi della mensa (The Art of Using up Leftovers). This influential collection of regional recipes is still used in home kitchens across the country today.

Italian omelette frittata ingredients
Photo © Mario Matassa

How Italians use leftovers

Italians no longer face the same hardships they did, but they haven’t lost sight of their roots; leftovers still feature in every family’s weekly menu. The truth is that some of our favourite and most famous dishes were originally conceived as ways of using up leftovers. For example:

  • Fried spaghetti:
    A Sunday tradition. Leftover pasta is tossed into a pan with oil and fried until it develops those coveted, crunchy ‘burnt’ bits at the bottom.
  • Risotto & polenta:
    By making a larger batch than needed, you effectively get two or more meals for the effort of one.
  • The bread bin:
    Bread epitomises Italian culinary invention. Since fresh bread is bought daily, a surplus is common — yet it is never thrown away. It is ground into breadcrumbs, soaked in milk for meatballs (polpette), or toasted for bruschetta and crostini.

However you go about using up your leftovers, they need not be faced with dread. Some of my most cherished and lingering food memories have involved leftovers.

On Tuesday afternoons I remember coming home from school to find my mother or grandmother mashing up polenta with potatoes and cheese. Then, like a conveyor belt, my mother would begin forming small patties and then frying them. My siblings and I would make short work of this treat. And as soon as our plates were clear another helping would arrive.

The recipes that follow are all simple, economical and healthy. What’s more, they are the best choice in comfort food, and are things that will always remind you of good home-cooking. What could possibly be better on a cold autumn evening?

Italian leftover recipes

Italian omelette | Frittata

Italian omelette frittata recipe
Photo © Mario Matassa

GET THE RECIPE

The frittata is the ultimate no-fuss Italian omelet. There are no strict rules here; it’s the perfect vessel for whatever is in your fridge. Whether it’s pre-cooked vegetables, leftover meat, rice, or even pasta, the trick is simply finding flavours that complement one another.

This version uses leftover asparagus and roast potatoes, bound together with fresh free-range eggs and a handful of savoury cheese.

Italian Meatballs | Polpette

Polpette: Italian meatballs recipe
Photo © Mario Matassa

GET THE RECIPE

Traditionally made from leftovers, polpette can be meat, fish, or vegetable-based. This recipe focuses on bollito (boiled meat) from a Sunday broth.

By chopping the cooled meat and seasoning it with fresh herbs, you transform a bland ingredient into a crispy, breaded treat that children adore. Served with greens and potatoes, they are a healthy, resourceful dinner.

Polenta fritters | Frittelle di polenta

Italian Polenta fritters recipe
Photo © Mario Matassa

GET THE RECIPE

Polenta is a versatile staple. While delicious when served ‘wet’ and creamy, leftover polenta firms up as it cools, allowing it to be sliced and fried.

These polenta fritters can be served as a savoury side, layered in the oven with ragù, or even dusted with cinnamon and sugar for a sweet Friulian-style breakfast.

Rice balls | Arancini

Arancini: Italian rice balls recipe
Photo © Mario Matassa

GET THE RECIPE

A favourite street food in the south, arancini are the perfect way to use up yesterday’s risotto. These rice balls are stuffed with meat ragù and a cube of melty mozzarella, then breaded and deep-fried until golden.

They are a crunchy, indulgent snack that makes ‘risotto night’ something to look forward to for the leftovers alone.

Panettone Pudding | Pane Perduto con Panettone

leftover panettone pudding recipe
Photo © Mario Matassa

GET THE RECIPE

When the holiday enthusiasm for Panettone or Pandoro fades, don’t let the cake go to waste. Stale slices are perfect for an Italian bread and butter pudding, or as a base for zuppa inglese (trifle) and tiramisù.

For the simplest treat, simply dip a slightly dry slice into a glass of Vin Santo and enjoy.

Next, browse our collection of Italian dessert recipes

Words and recipes by Mario Matassa