Past Italia! Catacombs of San Gennaro

Catacombs of San Gennaro, Naples

In Naples, where history is told through layers of earth, an ancient tomb offers a window to the distant past… Deep beneath the streets of northern Naples, on the slopes leading up to Capodimonte, in the area officially known as Rione Sanità, but also sometimes called the ‘Valley of the Dead’, lie le Catacombe di […]

Past Italia: Santa Maria del Monte

Santa Maria del Monte, Italy

La Scalinata di Santa Maria del Monte climbs to the church of St Mary of the Mount in Caltagirone, Sicily   The Church of Saint Mary of the Mount in Caltagirone dates back to the 12th-century; its staircase is early 17th-century; but the majolica tiles that have made the staircase famous today were only placed […]

Insider’s Rome: The Trevi Fountain

Trevi Fountain, Rome, Italy

You can go and see the Trevi Fountain for free, it’s just there, but it will cost you money if you ever want to see it again… Words and image by Jon Palmer There are actually lots of things you can do for free in Rome – especially if you happen to be around on […]

Past Italia: La Chiesa di San Pietro

The church of Saint Peter on the promontory if Porto Venere in Liguria, Italy

St Peter‘s (La Chiesa di San Pietro)  in Portovenere stands on a promontory overlooking the Gulf of Poets Saint Peter’s at Portovenere is built on the site of a 5th-century church, and before that an earlier, pagan temple dedicated to Venus. It was consecrated in 1198 but its bands of black and white Carrara marble (the […]

Past Italia: Il Castello di Santa Severa

Castello di Santa Severa, Lazio italy

The medieval castle of Santa Severa faces out to sea on the Lazio coast, just 40 minutes north of Rome The Castle of Saint Severa is named after a young girl whose entire family was martyred. Her father was a Roman military commander who converted to Christianity and was put to death for refusing to renounce […]

Insider’s Rome: The Pantheon

Pantheon, Rome, Italy

Proposals to charge entry to the Pantheon remain controversial, after plans were announced to start charging visitors from May this year… Words by Jon Palmer. Image by iStock Up until now, entry to the Pantheon was free, and had been throughout its 2,000 years of continuous use. This January, however, Italy’s culture minister, Dario Franceschini, confirmed […]

Nora Archaeological Park

Nora and tower Sardinia

Mary Novakovich shares her experience of this important and beautiful archaeological site in southwest Sardinia… Photos by Adam Batterbee   Founded by the Phoenicians in the 9th century BC and then ruled from Carthage, Nora became Sardinia’s principal city when the Romans took over in 238BC. Nora’s precarious position on a spit of land made […]

Past Italia: Arezzo Cathedral

Arezzo Cathedral, Tuscany, Italy

The Cathedral of Saints Peter and Donatus in Arezzo, Tuscany, boasts a long history and some eye-catching architecture La Cattedrale dei Santi Pietro e Donato is the city cathedral of Arezzo, Tuscany. The façade is a 20th-century reconstruction, and the clock tower was added then too, but the rest of the church was built between the […]

Insider’s Rome: The Capitoline Museums

Constantine Capitoline Museums Rome Italy

If it’s ancient statues you want, this is the place to be, but don’t ignore the works on the piazza outside the museum either… Words & image by Jon Palmer Recognised as the world’s first public museum (though that really depends on what you mean by ‘museum’, what you mean by ‘public’, and what you […]

Michelangelo’s nephew

On the trail of Lionardo Buonarroti, and the family palace he renovated in Florence. Lionardo, I have received thy letter and with it the three shirts. I am very much surprised that ye should have sent them … they are so coarse that there is not a farm labourer here who would not be ashamed […]